SULCATA (AFRICAN SPURRED TORTOISE) CARE SHEET
(Geochelone
sulcata)
No. SDTTS-014T
Written by
SAN
DIEGO
(619) 593-2123
website: www.sdturtle.org
With contributions from the
Tortoise Adoption Committee and Rosanne
Brown, D.V.M.
ENTIRE CONTENTS OR ANY PART THEREOF MAY BE REPRODUCED WITH DIRECT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO
THE
GENERAL: This
care sheet was prepared to assist you in providing proper care and maintenance
of a Geochelone sulcata (Sulcata or African spurred tortoise) should you
determine that this is the right tortoise for you, your family, and your yard.
Before
you decide to take one of these cute little hatchlings home, please consider
that this tortoise represents the world’s largest mainland tortoise. Only the giant tortoises of the Galapagos and
The
Sulcata requires a large grassy area and constant access to clean water. This species of tortoise does not hibernate
and does not tolerate damp or cold weather.
Even in southern
Because
of the size, strength, and occasional aggressiveness of Sulcatas, allowing
children to interact with these tortoises without adult supervision is not
recommended.
The
Sulcata became part of the pet trade in the 1990s. Because of its personable nature, generally
hardiness, and relatively low price, the Sulcata soon became the most commonly
purchased pet tortoise in
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Sulcatas
are characterized by the two or three large, prominent spurs or tubercles found
on their thighs. They have a broad,
flattened carapace that is tawny-yellow to sandy brown in color with darker
brown borders on the pronounced growth rings bordering the scutes. The plastron
is ivory to light tan in color with deeply notched anal scutes and forked
gulars. Their skin color varies from golden yellow to light tan and large,
thick overlapping scales protect their forelimbs. Males are generally larger than females.
NATIVE HABITAT: In
the wild, Geochelone sulcata occurs within a narrow sub-Saharan strip of
habitat that spans across the African continent and includes the countries of
Mauritania, Ethiopia, Sudan, Niger, Chad, Senegal, and Mali. In these areas, the Sulcata inhabits arid
savannah and acacia scrublands. To
escape from extreme temperatures and long periods of drought, they will
excavate long burrows in the ground.
Burrows may average 30 inches in depth, with some extending 10 feet or
more underground. These burrows are used
to escape from extreme high and low temperatures.
CAPTIVE ENVIRONMENT: It is important to understand that all
tortoises should spend most of their lives outdoors with easy access to natural
sunlight. Tortoises should never be
raised in a glass tank! In addition, all tortoises should be
provided with adequate shade to escape the hot sun and should also have access
to fresh water on a daily basis.
Depending upon the age and size of your Sulcata, housing and outdoor
enclosure requirements will vary.
Sulcatas,
particularly males, can be very aggressive to one another when sharing an
enclosure. This activity should be
closely monitored, and if the aggression continues, the individuals should be
permanently separated.
Tortoise Yard: Your
Sulcata should be provided with a large, grassy outdoor yard free of any
pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers.
This area must be securely enclosed.
Remember, these tortoises have great strength and can easily push
through a flimsy chain-link fence. A
wall or other sturdy, permanent fencing material is recommended. Sulcatas have also been know to excavate a
large hole in a very short period of time, so your enclosure should include a
barricade that extends approximately six inches into the ground below the
fence. It is also advisable to locate
your Sulcata enclosure within a larger enclosed area, such as a fenced
backyard. This will provide an added
barrier, should your Sulcata somehow escape from its enclosure. Be sure to include a shady area within your
enclosure.
The
use of chain-link fencing is not recommended because a tortoise can become
injured during an escape attempt. If
chain-link fencing is used, it should consist of commercial grade heavy-duty
galvanized chain link. In addition, a
barrier, such as wooden boards, that are at least 18 inches in height should be
placed at the bottom of the fence on the inside of the enclosure. This will prevent the tortoise from seeing
the area outside the fence, as well as eliminate the potential for neck and leg
injuries that would occur if the tortoise were to attempt to break through the
fence.
It is essential that a juvenile tortoise also have
access to natural sunlight. During the
day whenever the weather permits, a juvenile Sulcata should be maintained
outside in a protected, secure enclosure.
These enclosures can be portable, consisting of 2”x12” boards linked
together to form a square or rectangle.
Place the bottomless enclosure in a grassy area in order to provide
foraging for the tortoise. Wire or cloth
mesh should be placed over the top of the enclosure to protect the tortoise from
predation. Always provide a shady spot
within the enclosure to allow the tortoise to escape the heat of the direct
sunlight. In addition, you should place
a small hide box in the enclosure to make the young tortoise feel more
secure. Be certain that you have not
inadvertently provided an escape path under the enclosure due to an uneven
ground surface. Monitor your small
tortoise’s activities while outside and always bring it back inside before
temperatures drop and/or dampness sets in.
To
contain a sub-adult tortoise, the enclosure should be somewhat sturdier. One example is an enclosure made up of
various lengths of boards, 18 inches high by 3/4 inches thick and held upright
and into the ground by 10-inch spikes secured by fencing nails to the boards.
These boards can then be moved around the yard as required depending on sun
direction and access to shade. Be sure
to include a water dish and hide box within this portable, daytime enclosure.
Shelter: Unless you are prepared to give up a
portion of your yard to a Sulcata and to include within its enclosure room-size
housing, a Sulcata is probably not the best choice for you. Sulcatas do not tolerate damp or cold
weather. They must be provided with a
dry, heated house. There are a
variety of suitable housing designs to consider. These include modifying an extra large Dogloo
or similar molded plastic dog house to fit your tortoises needs, or
constructing what is best described as a moderately sized playhouse, complete
with linoleum flooring and an asphalt-shingled roof. The structure must be designed to ensure that
no moisture is permitted to collect within the housing. To maintain a warm temperature within the
house, a very heavy piece of plastic or rubber matting that has been cut from
the bottom into strips can be installed over the doorway. Sulcatas can be very messy; therefore, your
housing must be easily cleaned out, as well.
When
designing your Sulcata house, remember to plan for the future. A 20-pound Sulcata will eventually grow to a
100+ pound animal, and will need more room in the house to move around. To give a moderately-sized tortoise a feeling
of greater security within a larger house, you can always insert a smaller hide
box into a corner of the house, but be sure to leave plenty of room for the
tortoise to bask under your heat source.
This
species requires constant access to a warm, dry area, therefore, no matter what
type of housing you select, you will have to install a heat source. An incandescent red spot lamp or infrared dull
emitter must be installed in the ceiling of the shelter to provide basking
heat. This heat source must always be
kept at least 12 inches from the top of the tortoise’s shell. The Tortoise Trust states that a temperature
gradient is vital, therefore, your house should be of adequate size to allow
your tortoise the movement it needs to find a comfortable temperature. The Tortoise Trust also recommends that the
house be kept at a range of between 72° F and 88°F. The use of a thermostat is recommended to
better regulate the temperature inside the house. Providing basking heat for your tortoise will
ensure normal activity and feeding, particularly during the winter months.
Some
Sulcata owners use a pig blanket to keep their tortoise warm. Because Sulcatas in the wild use the radiant
heat of the sun to thermoregulate, we recommend the use of an overhead heat
source rather than a pig blanket.
Consult your veterinarian if you have concerns about heating.
Most
Sulcatas will find their way into their houses before nightfall, but it is
recommended that you always check your tortoise at night to be certain that it
is inside its house. Tortoises that are
permitted to sleep in damp conditions can contract colds and pneumonia.
During the juvenile and sub-adult stages of your
tortoise’s life, you must be willing to accommodate your tortoise within your
home. It cannot be left outside at night
or during periods of inclement weather. Predators,
cool temperatures, and dampness, even in southern California, are all threats
to your young tortoise’s health and well-being.
Your young Sulcata needs the security and added heat provided within
your home, not a poorly insulated garage or enclosed porch.
Like
many tortoises, Sulcata juveniles do not do well in an enclosed terrarium. It is recommended that you use an open-topped
enclosure that provides both security and a well-ventilated environment. You can build a wooden box with 6 to 8-inch
sides and line the bottom with linoleum, or use a sweater box for a very small
tortoise. Line the bottom of your
enclosure with paper towels. They are
inexpensive and easy to replace. We do
not recommend alfalfa pellets because the pellets make normal walking difficult
for a baby tortoise. Indoor/outdoor
carpeting is also discouraged because young tortoises catch their toenails in
the fibers, which also can make walking difficult. Under no circumstances should you place sand
in your enclosure as sand is easily ingested and can result in serious health
problems. In addition to an enclosure,
you will need a heat lamp, UVB lighting,
timers, a hide box, a water dish and a relatively flat food dish.
As your tortoise grows, so must your indoor
enclosure. A small tortoise can quickly
outgrow its hide box, water dish, and eventually its original enclosure. Some good examples of indoor enclosures for a
larger juvenile or sub-adult Sulcata can be found at http://sulcatastation.homestead.com/table.html. Once again, always be sure that your
enclosure has both a
basking area and a cool area. This will
allow your Sulcata to regulate its own body temperature.
Most importantly, when the weather outside is warm and sunny, move your young Sulcata to its outside enclosure. Natural sunlight is essential to your tortoise’s long-term health.
DIET: In
captivity, Sulcatas require a very high fiber diet. A lack of fiber can result in digestive tract
disturbances, diarrhea, and can increase susceptibility to flagellate and worm
problems. The feeding of fruit will
result in similar problems. Fruit, if
given at all, should only be an occasional treat. A grassy area within the enclosure is
essential, as it will provide a good source of fiber for your Sulcata.
Grasses
and hays are a critical component of the Sulcata’s diet. Experts recommend that mixed grasses comprise
70–75% of your Sulcata’s diet. The
following grasses are considered suitable fodder grasses: buffalo grass, Bermuda grass, bluegrass,
Darnel rye grass, western wheat grass, blue grama grass, and a variety of Fescue
sp. Grass hay (not alfalfa hay), which
is available at local feed stores, can also be provided. Avoid hays with excessively “prickly” seed
heads, such as Timothy hay, as these can injure mouths and eyes.
This
grass-based diet should be supplemented with flowers as frequently as
possible. Edible flowers and weeds that
should be included in a regular diet include: hibiscus flowers and leaves, wild
dandelion flowers and leaves, petunia, Viola sp., thistle, chickweed, opuntia
cactus, plantain and clover. Be sure all
flowers and weeds are free of pesticides and herbicides, and avoid picking
plants from roadside areas where plants are routinely subjected to vehicle
exhaust and chemical spraying.
For more information regarding sources for grass
hay and appropriate seed mixes consult your veterinarian or the websites
provided on page 10.
Grocery
store produce should represent only a very small part of your Sulcata’s
total diet. Acceptable produce includes
chicory, dandelion greens, collard greens, endive, mustard greens, romaine
lettuce, shredded carrots and pumpkin.
Although
Sulcatas will eat animal protein, DO NOT feed them anything containing animal
protein, as it will cause carapace deformity.
It should also be noted that excessive quantities of beans, bean
sprouts, peas and similar vegetables rich in protein can lead to scute
pyramiding. A high protein diet will
also cause rapid growth, kidney failure and a shortened life span.
Vegetables
such as broccoli, brussel sprouts, kale and varieties of cabbage can lead to
goiter and hypothyroidism and should be avoided or provided on only rare
occasions. Greens high in calcium
oxalate such as parsley and spinach can bind calcium, which could lead to metabolic
bone disease. These greens should be
avoided. Collards also contain calcium
oxalate and therefore if provided should be done so in very limited quantities.
The
ideal Sulcata diet should be: high in fiber; low in fats, oils and protein; and rich in minerals,
trace elements and vitamins.
Many
experts also strongly recommend against the use of commercially-available
“tortoise diets.” If you are considering
feeding these diets to your Sulcata, please consult with your veterinarian
before doing so.
Another
essential component of your daily feeding routine is the provision of clean
water. A combination wallow and water
dish should be provided even though your tortoise may seldom drink from it. A large plastic flowerpot dish set into the
ground works well for this purpose. The
dish should be cleaned frequently and the water replaced daily. In addition, juvenile and sub-adult Sulcatas
should be soaked weekly to ensure adequate hydration. Use a container large enough to accommodate
the tortoise, add tepid (not hot) water that is no deeper than is necessary to
cover the edge of the carapace. Allow
your tortoise to soak for 15 to 20 minutes.
Tortoises will generally take advantage of this time to replace their
water stores, voiding the old, and replacing it with fresh. Even large adult Sulcatas should be soaked
several times a year. For a very large
tortoise, you may need to insert the contained into the ground and encourage it
to enter the water for several minutes.
DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS: Tortoises that graze outdoors and have a
healthy diet do not require great amounts of vitamin and/or mineral
supplements. In fact, A.C. Highfield, in
his book, The Tortoise and Turtle Feeding Manual (2000), states, “There
is a great deal of misunderstanding concerning the role of vitamins and
minerals. Many people believe that the
more you get of both the better – this is categorically not true, indeed, some
vitamins and minerals can be positively dangerous if taken in excess.” Highfield recommends that you provide your
tortoise with as varied a diet as possible.
Never give your tortoise “pure” vitamins unless under veterinary
direction. If you give vitamins, provide
them orally rather than by injection unless under veterinary direction.
Tortoises
need significant quantities of calcium, particularly as they are growing. Unfortunately, in the captive environment, it
is difficult for them to obtain all the calcium they need from their diet
alone. It is recommended that you
occasionally sprinkle their food with a calcium supplement, preferably
formulated for tortoises. The best
supplements for tortoises are phosphorus-free, contain a wide range of trace
elements, and are free of added amino acids (these supplements generally
include vitamin D3 as well). Tortoises
that are maintained outdoors throughout the year should not need D3
supplements. Raw calcium
lactate, calcium carbonate, ground oyster shells or cuttlefish bones are also
good sources of calcium. The need for
extra calcium is especially high in females and hatchlings. Consult your veterinarian for specific
information regarding frequency and amount of supplements required for your
tortoise.
SHELL MAINTAINANCE: The carapace and
plastron of a tortoise are comprised of living tissue that needs oxygen and
exposure to sunlight to keep healthy. No
preparations, such as glycerin or oils, should be placed on the shell. In fact, the Tortoise Trust states that the build-up of soils, waxes, oils, or other preparations is
actually harmful to a tortoise's shell. The keratin and bony layers contain
millions of microscopic pores, and things such as the products mentioned
actually clog the pores, causing problems.
The
Tortoise Trust also recommends occasionally giving your tortoise a bath. As indicated on their website
(www.tortoisetrust.org), all one needs is a toothbrush, a tub of some sort
large enough to accommodate the tortoise, and tepid water, no deeper than is
necessary to cover the entire plastron, and an inch or so of the carapace. Take the toothbrush and gently brush the
entire carapace particularly the areas of build up between the scutes. Clean the area beneath the carapace as
well. Be careful of any areas not covered
with scales, as these areas can be more sensitive. Repeat the same procedure with the plastron,
paying careful attention that all dirt is removed from between the scutes. Finally, rinse well. DO NOT use any type of detergent, shampoo, or
other product unless recommended by your veterinarian.
ALIMENTS: Sulcatas
are especially susceptible to respiratory ailments. Some of the signs to watch for are a runny
nose, loss of appetite, gasping and lack of activity. These symptoms can also be signs of mouth
rot, bladder stones, or parasites. These
indications are warning signals that something very serious is wrong with your
tortoise. Left untreated, the tortoise
may die. Someone experienced in treating
tortoises, should be consulted immediately.
Contact this Society for the name of a veterinarian in your area
experienced in treating tortoises and see our TORTOISE AILMENT RECOGNITION
SHEET No. SDTTS-020 for more information.
BREEDING: The San Diego Turtle and Tortoise Society
does not recommend the breeding of Sulcatas due to the current overpopulation
of Sulcatas in captivity. Just one
clutch can consist of 20 or more eggs, and a healthy female can lay up to four
clutches a year. There are numerous
societies throughout California, including this Society, that have Sulcatas
available for adoption. This situation
will only get worse as more people decide that they no longer are able or
willing to care for the tortoise that once fit in the palm of their hand.
HIBERNATION: As
discussed previously, Sulcatas DO NOT hibernate. They must be kept warm throughout the year
and need a large, heated house to stay healthy and dry during inclement
weather.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: There are several
websites available that provide reliable information about Sulcatas and
tortoises in general. Some of these
sites are listed below, along with some very good publications. If you have questions or concerns, contact
this Society or a veterinarian with experience in treating tortoises.
San Diego Turtle and Tortoise Society www.sdturtle.org
The Tortoise Trust www.tortoisetrust.org
California Turtle and Tortoise Club www.tortoise.org/geninfo.html
TortoiseAid International www.tortoiseaid.org/sulcata.html
Highfield, A.C. 1996. Practical
Encyclopedia of Keeping and Breeding Tortoises and Freshwater Turtles. Carapace Press, London.
Highfield, A.C. 2000. The Tortoise and Turtle Feeding
Manual. Carapace Press, London.
Wilson, Richard and Robyn. 1997. The
Care and Breeding of the African Spurred Tortoise Geochelone sulcata. Carapace Press, London.