BOX TURTLE CARE SHEET
No. SDTTS-003H
Written by:
With Contributions from Care Consultants and Dr. Rosanne Brown, DVM.
ENTIRE CONTENTS OR ANY PART THEREOF MAY BE REPRODUCED WITH DIRECT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO THE SAN DIEGO TURTLE AND TORTOISE SOCIETY
( Photo courtesy of INDIANA TURTLE CARE, INC. )
GENERAL:
The box turtle (genus Terrapene in the United States), is secretive and usually remains hidden under the cover of low plants and bushes, burrowed in a pile of leaves or soaking in marshy waters under vegetation. The box turtle has a high-domed carapace (top shell) and a plastron (bottom shell) with a well-developed hinge that enables the turtle to completely seal itself up in its shell (although some overweight specimens are unable to close their shell entirely). The color and pattern on the shell and the skin of this genus is extremely varied and, due to interbreeding between species and sub-species, the identification of the subspecies of a particular specimen can at times be impossible.CONSERVATION CONCERNS: U.S. box turtles are heavily collected in the wild for the pet trade in this and other countries, to the serious detriment of individual animals and the wild populations. Huge numbers of box turtles die before they can be sold, and many of those finally offered for sale are severely stressed and ill due to grossly negligent and abusive treatment following capture. Box turtles are difficult to keep in captivity. They are most definitely NOT RECOMMENDED as pets for small children.
BOX TURTLE SPECIES of the United States
SCIENTIFIC NAME COMMON NAME
Genus: Terrapene
The United States species are arranged in order of their preference for humidity and moisture- Eastern desiring the most and Yellow, the least.
MEXICAN BOX TURTLES
ASIATIC BOX TURTLES
These species tend to be a bit more aquatic but have same general requirements as other box turtles.
TEMPERATURE, SUN AND SHADE: The human body is called warm-blooded because it creates its own heat and cools itself without help from the external environment. Turtles depend on the surrounding air as the only way to increase or decrease their body temperature. In captivity box turtles must be provided year round with a warm area (80o - 85o) and a cooler area allowing the animal to regulate its own temperature as it requires. Always use a thermometer when checking temperatures. Using human judgment of how warm or cool it feels can be very inaccurate. Thermometer(s) should be placed at turtle level. A large outdoor enclosure with sunny and shady areas should be supplemented with an insulated and heated house that remains at 80o - 85o year round. If you find that your turtle is not active, not eating, or is spending all of its time near the heat, THEN INCREASE THE TEMPERATURE OF THE HEAT SOURCE. The number ONE cause of captive turtle death is insufficient heat.
Direct sunlight as an ABSOLUTE REQUIREMENT for the turtle's health and growth. This sunlight must NOT be filtered through glass. Turtles MUST also have shade available as well. If their body temperature gets too high, they will quickly die.
No artificial lights are acceptable sunlight substitutes on a long-term basis. However, for temporary situations, Vita-Lite (Duro-test) is better than nothing. It produces about 90% of the ultra-violet spectrum which is essential to turtles. [IMPORTANT: Vita-Lites must be replaced about every six months or when the ends of the tube begin to turn a dark color. The light will still operate even when the beneficial part of the spectrum is no longer produced.] DO NOT USE: Gro-Lux, Aquarium Light, or Enviro-Light. (Of course, turtles with outdoor enclosures do not need these lights at all.)
OUTDOOR HOUSING AND EXERCISE SPACE: A large, securely fenced, sunny yard should contain low bushes, clumps of grass, piles of dry leaves, and clean water. Box turtles are excellent climbers and diggers, therefore the perimeter is very important. Chain link and chicken wire fences can be easily climbed by these turtles. Box turtles need to be confined by a 24 inch high fence made of wood, brick or concrete block. They should not be able to see through the walls of the enclosure. You will also need something placed on top of the wood or brick that is perpendicular to the wall, creating an overhang to keep the turtles from climbing out of the yard. Turtles also climb on top of each other in order to escape and corners are especially vulnerable. Be sure to top them with triangular pieces to further prevent escape. Once the enclosure is built with 24 inch high walls, determine where the pond is to be placed and lay a slanted drain pipe to the outside of the wall. Then back fill the area with eight to ten inches of good quality organic soil. This will fill the enclosure with soil to support growing grass, shrubs and small trees, while still leaving a wall of 14 to 16 inches. Box turtles can easily drown in water deeper than three (3) inches, and they must be able to get in and out of their water dishes easily. A shallow pond (two to three inches deep with gently sloping sides) or 18-inch diameter plastic or terra cotta flower pot saucers sunk into the soil and filled with clean water is a must. Clean water is essential for drinking, soaking and eliminating. Leaf piles are important for these turtles. They might be bordered on three sides by logs or boards to keep the leaves as deep as possible and in one place. In addition to the above, a well insulated "dog" house complete with thermostat, red flood light bulbs and a thermometer (at turtle level), should be constructed. The temperature inside should remain at 80o - 85o F year round. When such an environment is provided, the turtles stay active and healthy all year long.
VERY IMPORTANT: Not only must turtles be protected from escaping, but they also must be protected from injury, dismemberment and death often caused by dogs, and increasingly by raccoons and foxes. Never say that your dog will never chew on your turtle. Most dogs find turtles fascinating and will harm them if given the chance, especially when you are not watching them. If you have raccoons or foxes in your area, you must lock your turtles in their house at night (or bring them into your house). The turtles' habit of digging into the soil does not protect them from dogs, raccoons and foxes. Another option is to completely screen the enclosure above the wall line, like an aviary. However, this is very expensive and sometimes inconvenient.
The following is an example of a well-planted turtle garden:
The enclosed yard is approximately eight to ten inches higher than the yard outside of the wall. The pond depth at the deepest end is three inches. Note the drain pipe in the front wall. To drain the pond, simply unscrew the pipe cap and the pond will drain into your yard via gravity, then rinse the pond before re-filling. The turtle house shown in the back of the enclosure is insulated and contains red flood lights and a thermostat to control the temperature. The circular close-up of the wall shows the perpendicular overhang on the wall to prevent escapes.
If you are not able to provide a large outdoor area as described above, a small number of turtles can be kept in a smaller enclosure as long as sun, shade, water, etc. are available. In a smaller enclosure, a heated house may not be possible, so the turtles will need to be brought in at night and kept in a special indoor facility. Also there may be reasons that a turtle will need to be kept indoors for an extended period of time, e.g., extensive yard work, moving, etc. See Temporary Indoor Housing below.
PLANTS FOR A TURTLE GARDEN:
Grass: Bermuda, Mondo, or most any "clumping" grass as long as the edges of the blades are not sharp. Small clumps of sod may be used in part of the enclosure. Be sure it does NOT have plastic/nylon mesh as this could kill the turtles. At this time, only "Bermuda type" sod does not have this mesh.
Shrubs: Dwarf pittosporium
Small Trees: Strawberry, Lemon, Pineapple, or Mexican Guavas; Dwarf Nectarines, Peach, or Apricot; Ficus benjamina.
Note: These shrubs and trees can be easily pruned to keep them small.
Miscellaneous: Creeping Charlie, Wandering Jew.
Pond Plants: Water Hyacinths, Dwarf Papyrus, Water Lettuce.
DANGER - ANOTHER REMINDER: Dogs, raccoons, opossums, skunks, gophers, foxes, crows and hawks may harm or kill adult turtles by chewing on their shells, heads and legs. They also will eat very young turtles and dig up nests and eat the eggs. Cats, Blue Jays and other birds of that size can harm or kill very young turtles and hatchlings.
TEMPORARY/EMERGENCY OR NIGHTTIME ONLY INDOOR HOUSING: A large (4 feet by 4 feet would not be too large), draft-free enclosure with solid sides (not glass) that are 12 to 18 inches high is a good start. There should be several places for the turtle to hide, e.g., under plant branches, in a box, under a half-log, or a "hide box", etc. A heavy water dish with easy entrance and exit, at least 12 inches in diameter and two inches deep is required. The bottom of the enclosure should be of easily changed material such as newspaper, paper towels, or soil. NEVER USE THESE: corn cobs, rabbit pellets, sand, gravel, orchid bark, ground walnut shells, Astroturf, cedar or pine shavings, or cat litter.
NOTE: BOX TURTLE SHOULD NOT BE KEPT IN AQUARIUMS!!!
Heat and lighting are especially critical in an indoor enclosure.
1. Heat: Provide at least one warm area (85o F) by using red flood lights. This can be accomplished by using clamp-on fixtures available at hardware stores. Make sure they will handle the wattage of the red flood lights you are going to use (we usually recommend 100 watt bulbs). You may also use a fixed stand with the bulbs shining down into the enclosure. The temperature on the floor of the enclosure directly under the bulb should not exceed 85o F. We recommend using a thermostat attached to the flood lights to regulate the temperature which will prevent overheating. As always, check the temperature using thermometers at the turtle level. We also recommend enclosing the top of the enclosure to prevent heat loss.
2. Lighting: If this enclosure is for nighttime use only, there is no need to provide a Vita-Lite. However, if the turtle is to spend daylight hours in this enclosure, a Vita-Lite (Duro-Test) must be provided. The Vita-Lite should be attached to the lid of the enclosure or be attached to a frame that spans the top of the enclosure. The light should shine down into the enclosure. The Vita-Lite should be turned on during daylight hours and off at night simulating sunlight.
FEEDING: Variety is the most important word in feeding. Of course you must offer the proper food. Inadequate diet is the number two cause of turtle and tortoise death in captivity, because it lowers their resistance to illness and disease. The number one cause is keeping the animal at too low a temperature.
All box turtles are omnivorous; that is, they eat both animal food (the entire animal, not just the flesh) and vegetation (fruits and vegetables). They should NOT be fed steak, lean ground meat, or chicken. Steak and ground meat contain too much fat and raw chicken can be the source of salmonella. Eating only flesh does not give the turtle the vitamins, minerals and roughage that it gets from eating skin, stomach, internal organs, etc.
Animal Foods: The main diet of the box turtle should be a good quality (lowest fat content possible) dry dog food, or Primate-Dry by Zu-Preem, and a variety of fruits and some vegetables. The dog food and Primate-Dry should be softened with a small amount of water. Do not use too much water. They should be spongy, but not mushy. Box turtles also enjoy slightly moistened Trout Chow. For a treat, feed the turtle earthworms, night crawlers, sow bugs, meal worms, insect larvae and pupae, beetles, crickets, caterpillars, grasshoppers, eggs (hard boiled, scrambled), ground beef heart and beef liver. Snails and slugs should never be fed as they are intermediate hosts for a variety of parasites and the shells of the snails can cut the inside of the turtle's mouth, causing a variety of problems. Also snail bait may contaminate a snail and damage or kill the turtle that eats it.
Fruits and Vegetables: Some of their favorites are bananas, mangoes, papayas, cantaloupes, apples, melons of all types (except watermelon), cherries, grapes, all kinds of squash, yams, sweet potatoes, peas, corn on the cob and mushrooms. Any fruits or vegetables can be tried. Steam, then cool the harder-textured types. They particularly enjoy corn on the cob raw.
Ant Problems: Ants not only accumulate on and eat vegetable matter and meats, they also can kill turtles! You must be vigilant and eliminate ants when they are seen around your turtles and their food dishes. Pouring boiling water on the ant nests is one way. Another method is to remove the turtles and their food and water from the area and spray the ants with Formula 409 All Purpose Cleaner (Clorox company). This not only kills the ants but also removes the ant trail so others cannot follow an established trail to the food or the turtles. Wait 30 minutes, wash the area down with water, and replace the turtles and their food. Some people use white vinegar on the ant hills. Another method to keep ants out of the turtle food is to place the plate containing the turtle's food into a larger plate that has been filled with water. This way the ants cannot cross the water to get to the food. Never use toxic substances inside the turtle enclosure.
Water: These turtles use water for drinking, lowering body temperature, and to clean out their nostrils, eyes and anal openings. Bathing in water also helps the animal eliminate properly. This cleaning plays an important part in keeping the animal healthy and washing off potential parasites which could be harmful. Therefore, water dishes must be kept clean!!
Vitamins: Vitamins and minerals are very important! Box turtles should be given Super Preen vitamins/minerals on their food once each week. Place the Super Preen in a salt shaker and sprinkle on the food lightly. A cuttle bone and mineral block should be constantly available somewhere within their enclosure for them to eat as necessary. Osteoform or Bone Meal can be lightly sprinkled on the food as a good calcium supplement.
Many box turtles are secretive animals and may not eat in the presence of humans and other turtles and tortoises. They require an area where they can hide and feel safe when eating (under low bushes, logs, etc.). Moisture and humidity stimulate activity and eating.
Caution: Do not use snail bait, poisons or fertilizers in the turtle enclosure or on plants and animals the turtle will be fed. These can poison the turtles directly, or indirectly, by the turtle eating bugs that have poison within their bodies.
WINTER HIBERNATION: Allowing box turtles to hibernate during winter IS NOT RECOMMENDED in captivity. North American box turtles are native to a climate with very hot summer temperatures both night and day and very cold winter temperatures. In this climate they have many summer rainfalls and a constant source of foods to stock up for a long cold winter and a true hibernation. As captive box turtles experience a great deal of stress, and the winters here in Southern California are not very cold, we do not feel hibernation is safe. It is recommended that you keep your turtle active and feeding year round by providing a proper environment as previously described. However, if you live outside of California in true box turtle habitat, contact your local turtle and tortoise or herpetological society for information on hibernation.
BREEDING: Box turtles mate predominantly after cooler weather or, to a lesser degree, in the fall before cooler weather; but some mating activity is observed through the summer and those box turtles with access to a heated turtle house sometimes mate all year. Your enclosure must be large enough to provide hiding places where the female has the opportunity to hide and eat unmolested. Sometimes constant mating causes the female to stop eating and can also cause a prolapse (intestine protruding from the cloaca) and eventual death if left untreated and not separated from the male.
Egg Laying: Egg laying usually occurs in June or July, although some individuals do lay outside this period.
AILMENTS: Illness in box turtles is evidenced by runny or clogged nostrils, swollen, runny or filmy eyes, large lumps or swollen area near the ear (side of the neck), white or black tongue and/or mouth (normally these are light pink), and not eating for a week. Call this Society for the name of a veterinarian experienced in treating box turtles as anyone keeping turtles should be prepared to spend money on veterinary care.
The
San Diego Turtle and Tortoise Society
(619) 593-2123
Website:
www.sdturtle.org