CALIFORNIA DESERT TEXAS
(Gopherus agassizi, Gopherus berlandieri)
No.
SDTTS-001P
Written
by:
(619) 593-2123
ENTIRE
CONTENTS OR ANY PART THEREOF MAY BE REPRODUCED WITH DIRECT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO
THE
GENERAL: This care sheet was prepared to assist you in providing
proper care and maintenance of your Gopherus agassizi and Gopherus berlandieri
tortoises.
There are three species of
tortoises found in the United States: 1) the California Desert Tortoise
(Gopherus agassizi), 2) the Texas Tortoise (Gopherus berlandieri), and 3) the
Florida Tortoise (Gopherus polyphemus). Both the California Desert and the
Texas Tortoise are now protected by state and federal laws and cannot be removed
from their natural habitats. All three Gopherus species are banned from sale in
the State of California.
For those now in captivity, and
those born in captivity, a State registration is required and can be obtained
from this Society or the California Fish and Game Department. There is no fee
to register your tortoise. For marking purposes, use the numbered sticker you
receive when you register the tortoise. It should be attached firmly to the
underside of the carapace (top shell) above a rear leg.
It is forbidden by law to return
captive tortoises to the desert because they may carry diseases to the wild
population. Also, after captivity they lose their ability to survive in the
wild. If the need arises to find a new home for your tortoise, please contact this
Society to arrange for placement.
SAFETY: Tortoises MUST be protected from
ALL DOGS. No matter how well trained or friendly or small or old a dog may be,
it must never be allowed to be with a tortoise (or any turtle).
Raccoons, foxes, and coyotes are also dangers to large tortoises, while ravens
and even blue jays will kill small tortoises, unless they are protected by
screening over their outdoor enclosure. Rats have been known to chew on
hibernating tortoises.
Tortoises MUST NOT have
access to swimming pools, ponds, or spas. As they are unable to swim, they will
drown. Tortoises must be able to adjust their body temperature by moving in and
out of the sun. Shade must be provided to prevent overheating. Other hazards
include: poisonous plants (see our list); pesticides, herbicides, and chemical
fertilizers (do not use them); stairs; storage areas; garages; equipment.
Desert tortoises are feces eaters. Be vigilant and remove animal feces found in
the tortoise yard, especially from meat-eating animals.
NEVER cut the grass with your
tortoise loose in the yard. Wire fencing (e.g. chain link) must have a 12"
to 18" high border of wood around the inside perimeter to prevent necks
and legs from becoming entangled. Gates should have heavy spring closures and
a 12" to 18" board across the opening, just in case. Fencing should
go into the ground to prevent tortoises from digging out or other animals from
digging in. Make sure he cannot climb out of the enclosure.
Climbing in corners or on stairs
can cause a tortoise to tip onto his back -- this can be fatal.
Handling, especially by young children, can be very stressful. Dropping a
tortoise can cause serious injury.
The shell of the tortoise is
sensitive to touch and rough treatment. Hammering on or drilling into their
shells is painful to the tortoise. Some tortoises enjoy being petted on the
shell or on the top of their head. DO NOT use any paint on their shell, as it
can cause shell deformity and death.
Because males will fight, almost
without exception, they must not be housed together after reaching sexual
maturity. A partition or fence must be
maintained between them. Otherwise,
serious injury or even death may occur.
TORTOISE
YARD: Desert tortoises MUST have a yard. They cannot
survive in an apartment setting. The tortoise yard must be outside with sun and
shade available. It must have grass for the tortoise to eat (Bermuda is
recommended). It must also be large enough for the tortoise to roam and graze,
but you must be able to find the tortoise each night to put it under cover
(either in your house or in its house). It must have trees, bushes, and/or a
spacious shade house.
If you have ice plant in the
tortoise yard, it should be fenced off so the tortoise cannot disappear. All
poisonous plants must be removed or fenced off from the tortoise.
FENCING:
It is absolutely necessary to fence tortoises in to prevent them from
wandering. It should be a fence that
they cannot see through and should be AT LEAST 24 inches high. Chain link is especially bad. They will stick
their heads through and think they can go through it, which can cause damage to
their necks and legs. Fences should also
be buried into the ground at least six inches, in case they decide to dig.
In some cases, an option may be to
create a wide border (at least 12 inches) made of bricks, pavers, or rocks
along the bottom of the fence to discourage or prevent digging.
SHELTER:
As our coast is much damper than the desert, you must bring your tortoise into
your home each night before the sun goes down, or, preferably, provide him with
his own outdoor house.
The floor of a closet makes a
simple indoor house for a tortoise. Place cinder blocks up on end and put
boards on top of them. The boards then become your closet floor for shoes or
whatever, and the tortoise can sleep under the boards between the space created
by the cinder blocks. Be sure to spread sufficient newspaper on the closet
floor prior to allowing your tortoise to enter the area.
Alternatively, a shelter must be
provided outside. We recommend that you build or buy a doghouse type of
enclosure with a floor, and make sure it is waterproof. Over the doorway place
several pieces of plastic that have been slit from the bottom to allow the
tortoise easy access. Place a 15 or 25 watt red-colored bulb in the top of the
house on the inside. The bulb should sit about ten inches from the top of the
tortoise’s shell. Leave the bulb on at all times, as this will burn out much of
the humidity. The plastic will keep the air inside the house warm and dry, and
will help keep the damp air from entering.
The house must sit above the
ground and should be large enough to allow your tortoise movement to seek a
proper temperature. It is very important that you check your yard each night to
see that your tortoise is inside its house. Many tortoises contract colds and
pneumonia because they are allowed to sleep in damp conditions and/or breathe damp
air outside. Remember, these are DESERT animals. It is not wise to let them
burrow into the ground in our non-desert climate. It is extremely detrimental
to let them get wet in the rain. Although some tortoises enjoy walking under
the sprinkler, this should be allowed only when it is hot and sunny.
FEEDING: It
is essential for your tortoise to graze in your enclosed yard. Many grasses and
weeds are healthful (as long as they are not sprayed with insecticides), and
natural sunlight is also necessary. Be sure to read our care sheet: PLANTS
THAT POISON, NO. SDTTS-070 in order
to be certain that all undesirable plants are either removed or fenced off. To
supplement their diet, we recommend natural grown plants such as dandelions,
hibiscus leaves and flowers, rose flowers and young leaves, wandering Jew,
nasturtium leaves and flowers, grape leaves and the leaves and fruit from
zucchini, yellow crookneck, summer, and banana squash. Do not forget cactus and
succulents once in a while, especially Aloe Vera and the pads and fruit from
the beavertail and prickly pear cactuses. REMOVE
ANY SPINES! Be certain the above are
not sprayed, and do not use systemic insecticides or fertilizers in or around
your tortoise yard.
At least 90% of desert tortoise
food should consist of grasses, weeds, and flowers, as described above.
However, some tortoises that have not been accustomed to grazing may need to be
gradually introduced to these as food sources. Fresh grass clippings could be
sprinkled over his usual diet, for example. His level of nutrition must be
maintained.
If you must purchase some of your
tortoise food, the following are recommended: dandelion greens, collard
greens, and endive. These may be used occasionally: corn on the cob (raw),
tomatoes, broccoli, and rappini. Fruits should be given sparingly, or as an
occasional treat: strawberries, melons and their leaves (except watermelon),
apples (seeds removed - they are poisonous). Do not give bananas. Romaine
lettuce can be used as a treat or to mix with other items to encourage variety
in the diet. Do not use iceberg lettuce. Avoid the following as they negatively
affect the calcium needed by the tortoise: spinach, chard, cabbage, peas,
beans, and sprouting seeds. NEVER
give dog or cat food to a desert tortoise. Alfalfa rabbit pellets soaked in
water can be given occasionally.
For tortoises that refuse to eat a
variety of foods and insist on eating only lettuce, blend a variety of fruits
and vegetables in a blender and spread on the lettuce. You may also try placing
thin slices of fruit and vegetables on their lettuce for a sandwich effect, or
you may chop up a salad of healthful greens and mix with the lettuce. Over a
period of time, slowly cut down on the lettuce content until your tortoise is
completely weaned from lettuce and is eating healthy foods.
Tortoises that graze outdoors and
have a healthy diet do not require great amounts of vitamin and/or mineral
supplementation. They do, however, tend to need more calcium than may be easily
obtained in the diet alone. It is recommended that you occasionally sprinkle
their food with calcium carbonate and/or offer boiled and crushed chicken
eggshells, cuttlebones, and/or calcium blocks. The need for extra calcium is
especially high in females and in hatchlings. Ask your veterinarian
if further supplementation with appropriate vitamins and/or minerals is
indicated.
WATER: Tortoises MUST have fresh water available
to them at all times. (Filtered water is preferable to tap water.) This should
be provided in a dish (such as a flowerpot saucer) that can be sunk into the
ground. The dish should be large enough for the tortoise to sit in while he
drinks. In addition, desert tortoises should be soaked weekly during their
active months to assure adequate hydration. (It is thought that this may help
prevent bladder stones.) Use a container he cannot climb out of. Water should
come to the edge of the carapace. Use water that is about the same temperature
as the tortoise, and soak him for about 30 minutes.
Tortoises seem to love running water,
pooling from a hose or from a small sprinkler that attaches to a hose. But they do NOT swim, so do not expose
them to deep water.
ANTS:
Many times ants getting into the tortoise food creates quite a problem.
Ants not only accumulate on and eat fruits and vegetables, but they can also
irritate the tortoise. Certain species of ants can even kill tortoises. You
must be vigilant and eliminate ants when they are seen around the tortoises and
the food dishes. Pouring boiling water on the ant nest is one way. Another
method to keep ants out of the tortoise food is to place the plate containing
the food into a larger plate that has been filled with water. This way the ants
cannot cross the water to get to the food.
HIBERNATION:
Usually in October or November, the normal tortoise functions will slow down
and it will stay in its house for longer periods of time. When it does not come
out for about ten days, and you have checked to ensure it is healthy, you can
be relatively sure it is hibernating. We recommend three methods of
hibernation, depending on your facilities and the number of tortoises in your
possession:
- Let the animal hibernate in your house, in a cool place
such as the closet, as described previously.
- Place the animal in a newspaper-lined cardboard box,
place a sheet of newspaper over the tortoise and place the box in your
garage or any cool place, above the floor level to avoid drafts.
- Purchase or build a thermostat and install it in the line
that provides current for the lights in the tortoise house. Change the
bulb from 25 watts to 60 watts and adjust the thermostat to a setting that
will maintain about 50 - 55 degrees F. in the tortoise house. Stability of temperature is important.
Be sure NEVER to allow your
tortoise to hibernate in a hole in the ground. The dampness in the ground and
the possibility of drowning are serious in our coastal areas! Also never let a
tortoise hibernate if he has been ill at any time during the previous summer.
Keep him awake, warm and eating all winter, until he has displayed good health
for at least 12 consecutive months.
Be sure to check your tortoise
periodically during hibernation. Every week, touch a foot and listen for sounds
of congestion when he pulls his head in. It is also recommended that you soak
your tortoise monthly during hibernation. You must WATCH HIM CAREFULLY while he
soaks so that he does not drown!
If he should wake up, offer food
and water and replace him to continue his sleep. About March or April, your
tortoise should emerge from his house or become active in his storage box. He
should then be placed near water, grass.
BREEDING:
After hibernation and all through the summer, the male will attempt mating with
the female. This consists of bobbing his head and circling around her, biting
at her head and shell edges to make her pull her head in. When the position is
right, he will climb onto her back to mate. Do not be alarmed, as this is
normal behavior. Once fertilized, the female can lay fertile eggs for up to 5
years!
Be alert to the possibility that a
male might “court” a female with such persistence and gusto that she becomes
intimidated, stops eating and drinking, and in extreme cases may not leave the
tortoise house. Such stress must
be prevented. Prevention is easily
accomplished by separating them for a period of time.
EGG
LAYING: Usually in late spring or early summer,
the female will begin pacing, looking for the right spot to lay her eggs. She
may decrease or stop eating at this time and may seem quite agitated. Sometimes
it is very helpful if you prepare one or more areas in your yard by loosening
the soil then softly packing it back down. Do this in areas where she has shown
special interest. (If she does not eventually lay the eggs, you may need to
have her checked for egg binding through an x-ray.)
When ready, she will dig a hole
with her back legs, deposit her eggs into the hole and cover them up. Do not
disturb her while she is doing her maternal duties. After she leaves the area, it may be a good
idea to soak her to rehydrate her.
Tortoises do not provide care for their young.
If the eggs are left in the ground
or incubated, they may hatch. Care of
hatchlings is a huge long term commitment.
Unless you are experienced in raising hatchlings and have good homes and
knowledgeable people lined up in advance, then we recommend that you dig up the
eggs immediately and destroy them.
AILMENTS: Tortoises
are especially susceptible to respiratory ailments. Some of the signs to watch
for are runny nose, loss of appetite, decreased activity, and gasping. These
can also be signs of mouth rot, bladder stones, or parasites. These indications
are warning signals that something very serious is wrong with your tortoise,
and, if left untreated, he may die. Someone experienced in treating tortoises
should be consulted promptly. Contact this Society for the name of a
veterinarian in your area experienced in treating tortoises. A pre-hibernation checkup with your
veterinarian is recommended at least every other year.
KEEPING
DESERT TORTOISES WITH OTHER SPECIES:
Desert tortoises should only be kept with other desert tortoises and
Texas tortoises. They should NEVER be allowed to live with any other species
because of the danger of spreading diseases.
TAKING
CAPTIVE TORTOISES OUT OF CALIFORNIA:
When people have had a desert tortoise for a long time, they begin to think of
it as part of the family, and it is natural to include it into the family move
to other parts of the country. There are however, several obstacles:
a. California State law prohibits the removal
of California desert tortoises from the State.
- The weather here on the southern California coast is not
ideal for them, but it is better than the weather in most of the rest of
the country. We have received many letters from people that did not listen
to our advice, took the tortoise and watched it go through a very long
illness before dying. Those taken to the East Coast, Midwest and
southeastern United States, suffer the worst. If you have to leave this
area, for the tortoise’s sake, be sure to leave it with someone where it
can survive.
** Please contact
this Society if you want assistance in finding an excellent new home for your
tortoise. NEVER release a desert tortoise in the wild as it will not survive and
will spread illness to the wild population.
The
San Diego Turtle and Tortoise Society
(619) 593-2123
Website:
www.sdturtle.org